2001 Descendientesde José Palacios Bierzo, Corullón

2001 Descendientesde José Palacios Bierzo, Corullón

Two new words for your wine glossaries: Bierzo and Mencia.
Bierzo is a region located in the northwest corner of Spain’s Castilla León, close to its border with Galicia. It’s formed by a collection of small towns dominated by the city of Ponferrada, which is the only major population center. Bierzo is characterized by incredibly steep hillside vineyards, distinctive terroirs, countless ancient vineyards of a grape called Mencia and sheltered by surrounding mountain ranges.
Vineyards were planted there centuries earlier by French pilgrims on their way west to Santiago de Campostela. As time passed, however, they went into the rather deep hibernation which afflicted many if not most of Spain’s vineyards. The wines still being made were predominately very inexpensive and drunk young by the locals or the passing pilgrim. Awakening in Bierzo, albeit slowly, started in the late 1980’s.
Mencia still occupies most of Bierzo’s vineyards. Recently, it’s been documented to be related to Cabernet Franc and is probably a clone of this grape. In Portugal, the grape is known as Jaen.
One of the leaders in the renaissance of Bierzo was Alvaro Palacios now of Priorat fame. During the late 80’s, he was traveling through his native Spain selling French barriques to Spanish winemakers. He was also looking for the best place to achieve his goal of making Spain’s greatest red wine. He found two potential sites for the latter: Priorat and Bierzo. We all know that he chose Priorat and the unbelievable success that followed with "L’Ermita" and "Finca Dofi."
However, Palacios didn’t forget Bierzo and in 1998, with his nephew, Ricardo Perez, who was Bordeaux-trained, set out on a joint venture to uncover Bierzo’s best vineyard sites. They believed they found them in a little town, Corullón, which was on Bierzo’s western border. Old vineyards lined the steep hillsides there and the local soils were a combination of schist over chalk. Together, they quietly purchased a number of the best vineyards (many abandoned) in and around the town of Corullón. Their first vintage was in 1999 and they named the project, Descendientes de José Palcios, in honor of Alvaro’s father and Ricardo’s grandfather, José, who passed away several years earlier.
Their 1999 and 2000 vines were labeled "Bierzo" and "Bierzo Corullón". The former, no longer made, came from purchased fruit and test plots from hillside vineyards throughout Bierzo. The latter came from the Moncerbal, Las Lamas and San Martin vineyards in the town of Corullón. The 2001 is still derived primarily from these vineyards. Interestingly, too, and for the first time, they have single vineyard bottlings from these three crus as well as a fourth one called La Faraona…but more about these at another time.
2001 was a great vintage for Spain and for Bierzo, too, and this wine is a great example and introduction to Bierzo and the Mencia grape. Colored deep ruby, the wine is already complex with aromas of cherry, plum, earth, game and some vanillin. The palate sensation provides a creamy, medium body, good acidity, tannins that will soften and a smooth mouthfeel. Black fruit, a touch of mint and earth flavors carry into a long finish. Keep it under wraps for another year or have it now after a 2 hour decanting. After either of those options, have it with a chicken and shrimp paella. You won’t be disappointed.
Orígin information: PJ Wine