Wine and Spirits / Sherry-go-round

By Daniel Rogov
Over the years I have met many people who say they do not enjoy the Sherry (Jerez) wines of Spain, the most frequent objection being the hints of flor (the special yeast cap that forms over many of these wines), iodine and a kind of saltwater pungency. That's fair enough, I suppose. After all, the move from semi-dry whites to dry reds takes a certain "acclimation," as does the move from dry reds to the reinforced Jerez wines. But the shift, once made, is worthwhile - oftentimes it is precisely the flor, iodine, seawater and pungency of these wines that makes them so appealing. In addition to being fortified, Sherry wines are blended by the Solera Method, mixing young wines with those aged for 80 years or more. To qualify as Sherry, wines must age in the barrel for at least three years, and many are aged for up to 30 years. Sherry takes many forms, from very dry to syrupy sweet, but in effect there are only five different types of this wine. Fino is the aristocrat of the family, pale in color and so dry that those who usually consider Sherry to be sweet are surprised when they first sample it.
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Manzanilla is a lighter variety of fino, also extremely dry but with a unique salty tang. The rich Amontillado can range in color from pale almond to almost amber (as sherries get sweeter, their color gets darker), whereas Oloroso, which means "fragrant," is a deep amber color and sweet enough to be thought of exclusively as a dessert wine. Cream sherry, which is actually a sweetened form of Oloroso, is slightly thick and syrupy, deeper in color and even sweeter than Oloroso. At their best, cream sherries can be delicious. At their worst they can be cloyingly sweet and far too much like syrup. And then there are Sherry wines made from Pedro Ximenez grapes, which are often as dark as mahogany, thick and remarkably sweet and rich. At their most glorious, these wines do not go well with food but are best sipped slowly in the late night hours after dinner. The English, the world's largest consumers of Sherry wines, tend to drink Sherry at room temperature. I concur with most Spaniards that these wines are at their best when lightly chilled. As for food combinations, Sherry wines are versatile enough to make ideal accompaniments to tapas or desserts. Classic combinations include fino cherry with green olives, bits of ham or hard cheeses such as the Spanish Manchego. Amontillado goes well with cream soups and all dry Sherrys blend well with oily fish. Nor should one forget Sherry for cooking. For more detailed information about Sherry wines, I heartily recommend Julian Jeff's excellent book "Sherry," which is part of the Mitchell Beazley Classic Wine Library. Following are reviews of some of the Jerez wines available here and abroad. One of the advantages of these wines is that except for those aged 30 years or older, most of them are reasonably priced, from $10-25. Many find that such wines are best bought in the U.K., the U.S. and Spain. Bodegas Hidalgo - La Gitana, Oloroso, Viejo Hidalgo, VORS 30 Years (Bottled 2006), Jerez: Deep and rich, with enough peat and saltwater notes to recall fine single-malt Scotch whiskey rather than Sherry, but that comfortable illusion passes quickly as the wine opens to reveal nutty, caramel and apple notes. A well-crafted, long and complex wine. Drink now. Score 93 Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana, Pedro Ximenez, Napoleon, Viejo, Jerez, n.v.: Dark, glistening brown toward black, medium- to full-bodied, a remarkable array of aromas and flavors that play on the palate. Opens with caramel and figs, goes on to chocolate and dates, and continues with ginger and vanilla. Demonstrates its excellent structure and balance by lingering on the palate with a near-liquid chocolate note. Long, complex and delicious. Drink now. Score 92 Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana, Manzanilla, Pasada Pastrana, Jerez, n.v.: A single vineyard wine, showing light and fresh on the nose and palate. Opens with green apple, Anjou pears and green olive notes, with a tempting hint of seawater and molasses that linger nicely on the long finish. Drink now. Score 91 Bodegas Bertola, Pedro Ximenez, 12 Years, Jerez, n.v.: Dark mahogany in color with glints of orange, a rich, smooth and remarkably youthful wine. Full-bodied but floats on the palate and reveals floral, grape and dried fig notes on a nearly viscous texture, its generous sweetness set off by fine balancing acidity. Long, generous and well-balanced dessert wine. Drink now. Score 93 Bodegas Bertola, Amontillado, Fino Imperial, 20 Years, VORS, Jerez, n.v.: Deep bronzed gold, going to amber, with a walnut, seawater and floral nose. Full-bodied but seems to float on the palate, opening to show a fine array of toffee, iodine and nutty flavors, culminating in a long and generous bittersweet finish. Drink now. Score 91 Bodegas Toro Albara, Pedro Ximenez, Don P.X., 2005: A baby but oh what a beautiful baby, full-bodied, packed with caramel, raisin and spices. From mid-palate on notes of espresso coffee and chocolate. Thick, dark brown and with intense sweetness, balanced beautifully by natural acidity. Long and elegant. Approachable and enjoyable now, but best 2013-2020. Score 92 Emilio Lustau, Pedro Ximenez, San Emilio Solera Reserva, Jerez, n.v.: One of several wines one can thoroughly enjoy long after dinner with a fine cigar. My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Deep mahogany toward inky black in color, intense and concentrated enough to be thought of as "thick," but with the balance and velvety smoothness to carry it off. Unabashedly sweet, with aromas and flavors of rich milk chocolate, fruitcake, raisins, candied citrus peel and molasses. Best not with dessert but as dessert. Drink now. Score 93 Emilio Lustau, Fino, Jarana Solera Reserva, Jerez, n.v: A lovely golden toward orange color, this classic fino shows bone dry and seems to almost float on the palate. Anyone who recalls the pleasure of eating caramelized apples on a stick in their childhood will love this one with its warm apple, toffee, grilled nuts and cardamom aromas and flavors. Complex but easy to drink, and with remarkable length for a fino. Drink now. Score 92 Emilio Lustau, Dry Amontillado, Los Arcos Solera Reserva, Jerez, n.v. Medium-bodied, opening with walnut and bitter chocolate notes, yielding to creme brulee, toffee, creme Anglaise and light iodine notes that tantalize. Long and complex but very easy drinking. Drink now. Score 91

Origin information: Haaretz