South African Maverick: Eben Sadie of Sadie Family Wines

South African Maverick: Eben Sadie of Sadie Family Wines

Last night, at the SF Wine Center, I had a chance to meet a very special bi-hemispherical winemaker, Eben Sadie from Sadie Family Wines (pending website) who makes world-class wines both in South Africa and in Priorat (Spain). His first love is South Africa, where he grew up and has access to long term leases on many tiny parcels of prime grapes. When I asked him if he owned these, he said in South Africa there are laws that prevent anyone from buying land that can not be deemed financially self-sustaining. In real terms, this means that while Eben can make enough wine from a single parcel of a hectare or two, it's only because his wines command high prices. The South African government is thinking in terms of regular agriculture, like wheat, where a parcel that small isn't financially significant. This odd arrangement makes it easier for the mega producers to acquire land in big parcels. His African Home base is the Swartland region which stretches north of Cape Town, between Durbanville and Piketberg, inland from the Atlantic Ocean, centred on the town of Malmesbury.
Clearly a man that needs to stay moving all year round, he has set up a winery in Spain and is now starting to release single-vineyard Priorat wines bursting with old world charm and terroir --and fetching world-class prices for Spanish wines. He has acquired both land and leases for very old-vine Grenacha and Carignane plots and because of his experience in South Africa with Rhône grapes, he has a midas touch.
The majority of his wines are either organic or biodynamic but that's not enough for Eben. His dream is to make wines with as little mechanical intervention as possible in the future. He would like to be crushing en pied, pressing only in basket presses, and is already using gravity to move grapes and juice around the facility. It will be interesting to see if he can balance this romantic vision of the ancient Roman winemaker with the market pressures to create more bottles. All of his wine is pre-sold in allocation as it is.
As usual, I'll only be commenting about the wines I really enjoyed, which in this case is all of them! Eben was kind enough to provide some technical data on some of the current releases.
Tasting and Technical Notes:
Palladius 2006 (White)This was the first wine in the line-up and the moment I put the rim to my nose, I already judged it the best South African white I had ever had. Round and viscous with Chenin giving structure and the vioginer the high perfumes. Very delicious and recommended.Vineyards: Swartland Paardeberg MountainGrapes : Chenin blanc 30%; Viognier 30%; Grenache Blanc 20%; Chardonnay 20%Soils: Various – Granite & Gravel
Sequillo White 2006This has an old world oiliness to it, probably from the Rousanne, with a hint of Condrieu uncuousness, even though the very ripe Viognier is only 10% of the blend. Eben Sadie is very proud of this wine, but the 2007 is more what he's aiming for. I still really liked it. Vineyards: Swartland Paardeberg MountainGrapes : Chenin blanc 65%; Grenache Blanc 15%; 10% Viognier,10% RoussanneSoils: Various – Granite & Gravel
Sequillo White 2007The 2007 version of the Sequillo white has all the fruit of the 2006, but the early pick of the viognier brought the wine to a steel-edge focus. A remarkable balance, and another stunner S.A. White. Recommended.Vineyards: Swartland Paardeberg MountainGrapes : Chenin blanc 65%; Grenache Blanc 15%; 10% Viognier,10% RoussanneSoils: Various – Granite & Gravel
Pinot Noir 2006Vineyards: Elgin/StellenboschVery dense cherry, drier fruit in the dark mid-palate. Light in color but is lovely and densely flavored. From 18 year old vines.
Sequillo Red 2004Ripe and round but very pretty. Medium body with lots of Gigondas-like forest floor aromas. Vineyards: Swartland AreaGrapes : Syrah 60%; Mourvedre 30%; Grenache 10%Soils: Various – Granite & Gravel & Slate & Clay
Sequillo Red 2005A bit spicier with a lot more grip. The first smells are that of a bright and herbaceous, with a hint of tarragon and mint. This was a big year, so the tannins and chewiness will do well with several years age. Vineyards: Swartland AreaGrapes : Syrah 60%; Mourvedre 30%; Grenache 10%Soils: Various – Granite & Gravel & Slate & Clay
Columella 2004 and 2005In my first review of the 2004, I was really impressed with the 2004. The 2005 has more grip, even more blackberry bramble and lots of backbone. Though it's a bit backward now, up to 10 years will make this a stunner. Recommended.Vineyards: Swartland Mountain AreasGrapes : Syrah (80%) & Mourvèdre (20%)Soils: Various – Granite – Slate – Clay – Gravel
Sadie Family Spain
The new releases of Priorat wines from Eben Sadie are amazing wines, indeed. The retail prices range from $87 to $140 US retail so they are at the high end of the range most Americans are used to paying for Spanish wines, so it should be interesting to see how they sell. Early word is they are a hit with restaurant wine buyers. Look for these to hit our shores in June 2008.
Terroir al Limit 2005Very rich and ripe old vine Grenacha. Only 2000 bottles made. Tight now, but patience will pay off. Delicious.
Arbossar 2004This is 80% Grenacha and 20% Cariagne from a high northern slope vineyard. Very distinctive aromas of Priorat rhone grapes, exploding with perfume on the nose. Tart and tight. My favorite of the three and highly recommended.
Dits del Terra 2004This is very tight at this point and it had some chocolate aromas and a bit of spice. This I would like to re-taste in five or six years.

Origin information: The Corkdork - Wine and Food Musing