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See some products and prices (Excel file) at www.winesinform.com/OfertaPublicaBodegasWeb.xls

Importer Sheet and Winery Sheet: Advises

Sobre el trabajo de comprador . Si necesita aceite de oliva, vino o alimentos de España escriba a winesinform@gmail.com

Vea algunos productos y precios (Hoja Excel) en www.winesinform.com/OfertaPublicaBodegasWeb.xls

Ficha de importador y Ficha de bodega: Consejos


martes, 19 de septiembre de 2017

La més alta gamma del cava, no sense polémica


La més alta gamma del cava, no sense polémica






Ramon Francas


La ministra d’Agricultura, Isabel García Tejerina, va signar el 6 de juliol l’ordre ministerial que creava definitivament els anhelats Caves de Paratge Qualificat. Aquesta és  la nova categoria que visibilitza la més alta gamma del cava, el vèrtex de la piràmide qualitativa del sector. Inicialment, la nova categoria s’estrena amb 16 productes de 12 paratges i de 9 cellers: Torelló (2), Recaredo (2), Alta Alella, Juvé & Camps, Freixenet, Codorníu (3), Vins El Cep, Gramona (4) i Castellroig. Corresponen, pel mateix ordre, als paratges de Vinyes de Can Martí; Turó d'en Mota i Serral del Vell; Vallcirera; La Capella; Can Sala; La Pleta, El Tros Nou i La Fideuera; Can Prats; Font de Jui i Terroja. Més endavant en sortiran més, que ja han passat pel comitè de tast. Són caves que, segons el president del Consell Regulador de la DO Cava, Pere Bonet Ferrer, es diferencien de la resta per la seva singularitat i per la seva excel·lència. El cava necessitava molt d'una eina com aquesta. De fet, com diu Pere Bonet, el cava és un luxe gens car. Els caves Prèmium, a més, no paren de créixer, i també els ecològics. Són bones senyals.
 Els nous Caves de Paratge Qualificat, però, no han aconseguit acontentar tothom. Ja se sap, això és com escriure o ploure a gust de tothom. Hi ha qui creu que amb més de 10 grams de sucre o amb criances en bótes de roure és difícil mostrar el paisatge (paratge). Hi ha qui no entén el paratge sense la intervenció de l’home i hi ha qui se las ha hagut d’empescar per poder-se colar amb contractes a llarg termini en aquest selecte grup dels Caves de Paratge Qualificat. També hi ha qui creu que no s’ha filat prou prim pel que fa a alguns paratges i també, com Sumarroca, qui ha lamentat públicament no haver-hi pogut entrar per no tenir tota la informació necessària la passada verema. També hi ha qui troba molt car haver de pagar 1 euro per precinte en aquests nous caves excelsos, i d’altres que no veuen un altre camí que situar aquests productes en una franja alta de preu.
 A Sumarroca estan tan enfadats que no volen optar a futures qualificacions, assegura el director general, Josep Puig. “Som víctimes de ser pagesos, i hem acabat fent el pagès”. La sequera de la darrera verema va fer disminuir molt la producció pròpia de raïm (1 milió de quilos menys) i com que no van aconseguir comprar prou raïm van haver d’adquirir vi base per no haver d’encarir en excés els caves i vins. Aleshores encara no es coneixia el reglament dels nous caves de Paratge Qualificat (que limiten el vi base que es pot comprar al 15% del total) i van adquirir excepcionalment al voltant d’un 23% de vi. En condicions normals (sense sequera), assegura que produeixen al voltant de 2,5 milions de quilos de raïm, suficient per optar al Cava de Paratge. Josep Puig diu que el que els interessava era entrar en la primera llista dels caves de Paratge, i que “ara ja hem perdut l’interès”.
Sumarroca comercialitzarà els seus caves icona indicant els paratges dels quals procedeixen, encara que no podran lluir els nous distintius de Cava de Paratge Qualificat.
 Entre els requisits per aconseguir ser Cava de Paratge Qualificat destaca un mínim de 10 anys d'antiguitat dels ceps, un rendiment màxim de 8.000 quilos per hectàrea, un procés de verema manual o un premsat màxim de 60 litres per cada 100 quilos de raïm. La nova categoria es distingeix de la resta per la seva singularitat, la seva excel·lència i per un mínim de criança en rima de 36 mesos. Tant la producció de raïm a la vinya com l’elaboració del vi base i el cava al celler han de complir un estricte i específic plec de condicions. La comprovació de tot això segueix un protocol rigorós  per part dels serveis tècnics del Consell Regulador de la DO Cava. Després de comprovar la bondat dels dossiers presentats, els Caves de Paratge Qualificat han de passar un examen organolèptic per part d’un comitè d’experts.
 Aquests caves que permeten oferir productes de llargues criances molt identificats amb un terrer són, per sobre de tot, una oportunitat per explicar que el cava pot jugar a la màxima divisió mundial dels escumosos de qualitat (és el més exportat del món) a un preu molt raonable, i que no és només un producte de súper a preu rebentat que només serveix per brindar. Com va dir el neuròleg i psiquiatra austríac Viktor Frankl, fins i tot quan no és completament assolible, ens convertim en millors en intentar perseguir una meta més alta.
 Ja han començat a fer-se alguns actes promocionals dels caves de Paratge Qualificat. El primer es va fer el passat 13 d’agost a la 36ena Festa del Cava organitzada pel publicista Marc Marti i la seva companya, Angels Homs, a la casa que tenen al barri de Bonavista del Pla del Pènedes. Mes de 100 convitats van assistir a la tradicional festa on es van poder degustar cinc caves de Paratge que s’havien d’endevinar. El tast a cegues va ser dirigit per Quim Vila, marxant de vins i copropietari de Vila Viniteca. Va guanyar Antoni de la Rosa i Torello, codirector de les Caves Torello i president de la Confraria del Cava Sant Sadurní.


Origen informació: Nació Digital

What do the world’s best-selling Champagnes taste like? (Part 1) ... Comment of / Comentario de Wines Inform Assessors

What do the world’s best-selling Champagnes taste like? (Part 1)

The biggest names in Champagne may be highly recognisable, but what do they taste like? We assess the leading labels for style and quality




by Patrick Schmitt


As part of the drinks business Global Masters wine tasting competition series, we have been judging Champagne quality since 2012 using sparking wine experts and Masters of Wine only.
And, in the past few years, we have ensured that the Champagne Masters – which seeks to assess the relative quality of just Champagnes according to price and style – includes the biggest names in the business.
Along with all our competitions, the judging is done ‘blind’, which ensures that no taster is influenced by source area or producer.
With this in mind, over the following pages, we are able to bring you a totally impartial analysis of the style and quality of Champagne’s biggest names, along with a brief look at the components of these blends – which use wines from a range of years, and grapes from across the Champagne region.
Significantly, the quality of Brut Non-Vintage Champagne, which is the standard-bearer for any brand, has been on the move over the past 10 years, with today’s blends offering greater depth and precision – which stems from an increase in the proportion/age of reserve wines in the blend, while, at the same time, lowering the amount of sugar added just before the fizz is corked, otherwise known as the dosage.
Better quality vineyard management and harvesting techniques have also yielded higher-quality grapes, giving rise to improved base wines for making Champagne – a necessary development as the competition among rival sparkling wines intensifies.
While, helping the biggest names in the Champagne trade are major investments in winemaking facilities – the leading houses are aiming to increase scale and quality.
Indeed, as previously reported by db, huge sums have either been recently spent or are being committed to updating production facilities at major-volume maisons such as Lanson, Taittinger, Moët and Veuve Clicquot, as well as smaller but equally high-profile brands such as Bollinger, Pol Roger and Roederer.
For those not familiar with the Champagne winemaking terms used above and throughout this list, please see the definitions below:
  • The dosage is a final addition of wine and sugar syrup that determines the residual sugar of Champagne.
  • Reserve wine is an aged still wine used for blending with still wine of the youngest vintage before the combination of wines undergoes secondary fermentation in bottle to become non-vintage Champagne.
  • Lees ageing refers to the practice of leaving the wine in contact with the dead yeast cells formed after the second fermentation in bottle. The interaction of the wine with its lees is called autolysis, and brings a creaminess to the wine, along with bready aromas and reduced astringency, depending on the time a wine spends in contact with the lees. It’s widely believed that four years contact is necessary for the bready aroma to be clearly detectable.
  • MLF refers to malolactic conversion or fermentation. This is a process after the primary fermentation whereby malic acid present in the grape must, which has a very sharp taste, is converted to milder lactic acid by the successive action of various bacteria of the genera OenococcusLactobacillus and Pediococcus. In modern stainless steel fermentation vessels it can be started by inoculating the wine with a bacterial culture, and stopped by fining, filtration or cold stabilisation. Some Champagne houses block the conversion, notably Gosset, Lanson, Alfred Gratien, Krug and Louis Roederer (although the last may allow a proportion to go through MLF, depending on vintage conditions).
  • Brut Non-Vintage (BNV) is Champagne made from a blend of harvests with a dosage of less than 12 grams per litre (g/l) of residual sugar, although there is a 3g/l tolerance.
Comment of / Comentario de Wines Inform Assessors:


Esta tendencia del consumidor se ha dado en España y en particular en la mayor región consumidora y productora, Catalunya.
Actualmente los cavas/vinos espumosos brut nature son la mayor parte de la oferta
Content en azúcar:
BRUT NATURE Hasta 3 g/l y sin adición de azúcar
 EXTRA BRUT Hasta 6 g/l
 BRUT Hasta 12 g/l
 EXTRA SECO Entre 12 y 17 g/l
 SECO Entre 17 y 32 g/l
 SEMI SECO Entre 32 y 50 g/l
 DULCE Más de 50 g/l
.................................
This trend of the consumer has occurred in Spain and in particular in the largest consumer and production region, Catalonia.
At the moment the cavas / wines sparkling brut nature are the greater part of the offer
Content of sugar:
BRUT NATURE Hasta 3 g/l y sin adición de azúcar
 EXTRA BRUT Hasta 6 g/l
 BRUT Hasta 12 g/l
 EXTRA SECO Entre 12 y 17 g/l
 SECO Entre 17 y 32 g/l
 SEMI SECO Entre 32 y 50 g/l
 DULCE Más de 50 g/l
Wines Inform Assessors, Barcelona
Origin information: The Drink Business

Los vinos argentinos se venderán online en China ... Comment of / Comentario de Wines Inform Assessors

Los vinos argentinos se venderán online en China


Un importante acuerdo, en el que ha participado el Gobierno, permitirá a los vinos argentinos desembarcar por primera vez en Alibaba, el gigante tecnológico de e-commerce en china que cuenta con 500 millones de consumidores
En china no digas Amazon, di Alibaba. Esta multinacional es un consorcio privado con sede en Hangzhou dedicado al comercio electrónico en Internet. Cuenta con una facturación estimada de 200.000 millones de dólares, unos 22.000 empleados y 500 millones de usuarios, unas cifras más que suficientes y en las que ha puesto el objetivo Argentina para la promoción y exportaciones de sus vinos.
La Agencia Argentina de Inversiones y Comercio Internacional (AAICI), el Ministerio de Agroindustria y Wines of Argentina (WofA) anunció que los vinos argentinos participarán por primera vez de las promociones de la plataforma e-commerce china Alibaba.
En este sentido, convocan a las bodegas argentinas a sumarse a la "Official Argentine Wine Flagship Store", la nueva tienda oficial de vino argentino disponible en Alibaba.
Esta iniciativa, es otra de las acciones de promoción establecidas en el MOU firmado en mayo de este año entre la Agencia y Alibaba Group. Tiene la finalidad de potenciar la marca "vino argentino" entre los consumidores chinos, fortaleciendo el posicionamiento de las bodegas que ya están presentes en ese mercado y brindar oportunidades para nuevos productores.
La tienda on line comenzará a operar con las promociones que organiza T-Mall (la plataforma C2C de Alibaba) el 11 de noviembre para el "Single's Day". Hasta esta fecha, la plataforma sólo estará abierta para vinos que ya tengan presencia en el mercado. A partir del Año Nuevo Chino (18 de febrero), se podrán sumar nuevos vinos que vengan de Argentina. Otras fechas de promoción, serán el Día Mundial del Malbec (abril) y el Día Nacional Argentino (mayo).
El formato de venta en el que se desarrolla la acción está enfocado en una generación más joven y con el hábito de compra en línea desarrollado, además de un interés por diferentes vinos.
Alibaba.com representa aproximadamente el 50% de todas las ventas on line de vino, por lo que resulta una herramienta útil para potenciar la  exportación y posicionar la marca-país en el mercado del gigante asiático.


Comment of / Comentario de Wines Inform Assessors:


We must be aware of how wines are sold / promoted in AliBaba.
Personally I am happy if it facilitates to know wines of any country in any market.
Another thing is with what quality they arrive, based on which criteria are selected by importers and are bought by consumers, .... and in the end do not lose sight of the fact that the local product has / should always have a priority in the mentality of consumer

Wines Inform Assessors, Barcelona
...................

Habrá que estar atentos a como se venden/promocionan los vinos en AliBaba.
Personalmente estoy feliz si se facilita el conocer vinos de cualquier país en cualquier mercado.
Otra cosa es con que calidad llegan, en base a que criterios se seleccionan por importadores y se compran por los consumidores, ....y al final no perder de vista que el producto local tiene/debera tener siempre una prioridad en la mentalidad del consumidor

Wines Inform Assessors, Barcelona


Origen información: Vinetur

jueves, 7 de septiembre de 2017

Les JA du Gard publient un manifeste des bonnes pratiques en supermarché

Les JA du Gard publient un manifeste des bonnes pratiques en supermarché




 Marion Sepeau Ivaldi


Clarifier le linéaire vin et mettre en avant la production locale et française : telles sont les deux principales intentions du manifeste des Jeunes agriculteurs du Gard. - crédit photo : DR


Le syndicat annonce la signature d’un manifeste le 7 septembre prochain en présence de trois enseignes de la grande-distribution locale.


Après plusieurs mois de travail avec la grande distribution, le texte est finalisé ! Les Jeunes Agriculteurs vont pouvoir mettre à la signature leur Manifeste des bonnes pratiques en linéaire vin à trois enseignes de la grande distribution : Carrefour Market, Super U et Metro. « L’objectif de ce texte est d’orienter les pratiques vers ce qui est juste pour le producteur » indique Guilhem Castan, trésorier des Jeunes Agriculteurs du Gard. Le texte aborde la question de l’information en linéaire, militant pour une information claire et transparente pour le consommateur sur l’origine des produits (locale, nationale et étrangère). « Nous ne sommes pas contre les importations, nous sommes également importateurs. Mais nous souhaitons que le consommateur ait accès à une information claire » précise Guilhem Castan.


Un objectif sur les origines


Les Jeunes Agriculteurs livrent également leur recommandation en matière d’offres de produits. « Nous demandons qu’il y ait 90 % de vins français et 60 % de vins issus de la production locale » explique Guilhem Castan, tout en précisant qu’il s’agit plus d’un objectif que d’une réclamation. « Certains magasins, de par leur mode de fonctionnement de l’enseigne, n’ont pas une liberté totale sur le choix des gammes » explique Guilhem Vigroux.


Cette initiative, plutôt constructive, s’inscrit dans une démarche locale. Mais les Jeunes agriculteurs gardois aimeraient la voir se développer. « Nous réfléchissons à comment l’ouvrir à d’autres organisations et comment lui donner une ambition nationale ».


Origine information: Vitisphère

martes, 5 de septiembre de 2017

Nuevos tenderos / Nous botiguers ... Comment of / Comentario de Wines Inform Assessors

Nuevos tenderos / Nous botiguers




Modest Guinjoan


Hace 110 años que se publicó la novela de Santiago Rusiñol L’auca del senyor Esteve y hace 100 que se estrenó una versión escénica de la obra. El autor cogió como exponente de la burguesía catalana de la época( mediados del siglo XIX) la figura del tendero, una actividad históricamente muy arraigada y queseas ociaba a ganarse bien la vida. Lástima que el Ramo n et, hijoSr. Este ve, no quiere heredar el negocio porque tiene otras inquietudes, lo cual genera un conflicto considerable.


Situados en fecha actual, el comercio en Catalunya consiste en 101.000 establecimientos, con una superficie de venta de 13,3 millones de metros cuadrados (1,8 por habitante) y un volumen de empleo de 334.000 personas (10,2% de los ocupados). Son registros comerciales altos, en el contexto de un sector que a lo largo de los últimos años ha sufrido profundas transformaciones, unas a remolque de la globalización (y la implantación extensiva de marcas globales) y de otros a remolque del dinamismo empresarial de tenderos de toda la vida que han encontrado en la expansión de la distribución su negocio. El principal beneficiado de la transformación ha sido el comprador, el cual ha pasado a poder escoger un menú comercial riquísimo en términos de precios, de variedad de producto, de formatos comerciales, de marcas, y un largo etcétera.


Como es normal en toda evolución, esta ha generado víctimas y ha propiciado la aparición de nuevos actores. Sin lugar a dudas, el que ha quedado más tocado es el tendero clásico, el independiente, especializado, próximo al comprador y que tenía oficio y negocio heredado de sus padres, que tenía en la tienda una salida profesional, digamos que natural. Lamentablemente señores Esteve hay cada vez menos. Es perceptible si uno se fija en cómo ha cambiado en pocos años la estructura de establecimientos comerciales de su alrededor. Buena parte de los tenderos independientes del barrio donde vivo han cerrado porque ya no eran competitivos y/o porque se han jubilado, sin que sus hijos tuvieran interés en continuar el negocio.


Se da el caso de que, cuando una tienda cierra, no hay continuidad en la especialidad anterior, sino sustitución. Pasa invariablemente a ser un súper pequeño sin marca o súper pequeño franquiciado, un bazar, una peluquería, una panadería con degustación, una frutería, y otros, regentadas mayormente por orientales. Son los nuevos tenderos.


En general, en mi barrio, de la diversidad de oferta hemos pasado a la concentración en producto cotidiano y comercio mixto, con claro predominio de la baja calidad, incluida la del establecimiento. El trato al cliente ha salido perdiendo mucho, los escaparates también y la exposición de producto en muchas tiendas es lamentable.


No tengo nada que decir si, como supongo, los nuevos tenderos cumplen las normas de consumo, laborales, fiscales, sanitarias, las ordenanzas municipales y, en general, todo lo que es regularidad. Sólo que el perfil de oferta y de establecimientos dista del concepto de calidad que creo que el país (y el comercio) tendría que perseguir.


El trato al cliente ha salido perdiendo mucho y los escaparates también


Comment of / Comentario de Wines Inform Assessors:


A worrying and complex situation well explained.
It would have to add the lack of level and formation of many other stores still being run by native people who in principle should estimate and know more and better the products that sells
.................
Una situación preocupante y compleja bien explicada.
Habría que añadir la falta de nivel y formación de muchas  otras tiendas aún siendo regentadas por gente autóctona que en prinicipio debiera estimar y conocer más y mejor los productos que vende

Orígen información: La Vanguardia (castellano)  y La Vanguardia (catalán)

miércoles, 30 de agosto de 2017

Organics: Trusting the Terminology ... Comentario de / Comment of Wines Inform Assessors

Organics: Trusting the Terminology


© Wikimedia Commons | There's a big gap between organic grapes and organic wines.
 
In part two of our series on chemical-free wines, we examine the issues around nomenclature.

By Tom Jarvis | Posted Tuesday, 22-Aug-2017
The first part of this series provided brief outlines of organic and sustainable viticulture and biodynamics. Here we look at some of the key debates, caveats and controversies surrounding them.
Organic grapes vs organic wines
For many years in the EU, the only certification was for "wine made from organically grown grapes" as no legal framework was in place for winery practices. But the term "organic wine", defined in EU law since 2012, also deals with use of additives and other practices in the winery, with focus on sulfur additions but also covering enzymes, cultivated yeasts, acid adjustments and so forth.
Related stories:
Making Sense of Organic Wine
Organic Wines Keep it on the Lowdown
America vs. Europe: The Organic Divide
While the two largest jurisdictions have greatly clarified and improved their regulations, unhelpful discrepancies remain between EU and USDA codes. Wines that gain the USDA organic seal are organic wines with no added sulfites. Sulfur dioxide additions (potassium bisulfite or metabisulfite) of 100 parts per million are allowed in wines that may carry the description "made with organic grapes". However, in Europe organic wine may have up to 100 milligrams per liter sulfur dioxide content in dry red wines, with a 150mg/l limit on white and rosé wines.
Before 2012, the term "natural wine" began to be used by those who made, sold or drank wines made with no or minimal chemical additives. Given the leeway on sulfites in current EU regulations, attempts are now being made to codify this movement.
The topic of natural wines and organic enological processes will be examined further in the third instalment of this series.
Certification
The concept of certification creates much controversy, as do the complexities of the various processes to gain certification. This is tied up with the motivating factors for growing organically or biodynamically.
As mentioned in part one, some practitioners of organic and biodynamic farming say they do it to make the best possible wine and preserve their land for their land in a healthy state for their children. Marketing is based on wine quality, not organic farming per se, so certification could be seen as unnecessary, and some producers even characterize it as a tax on organic farming. Some advocates say organic methods should be the norm, and it should be chemical users who are certified.
Phrases avoiding the word "organic" that often turn up to describe uncertified producers include "farming without the use of synthetic herbicides, pesticides and fungicides", though the consumer must trust in the producer and/or suppliers as to what such phrases really mean.

Certified organic producers often object to wines from uncertified producers being identified as organic in the marketplace. The latter have not gone to the same effort (in terms of paperwork) and expense, or undergone the same scrutiny. They can also spray fungicides if a particular problem arises in the growing season. This debate has led to some quite heated exchanges between the different camps, when one might think they shared many common values.
In biodynamics, Demeter – owned by the International Biodynamic Assocation – is the default certifier, however some producers feel it is too strict on certain areas of enforcement. Meanwhile, Michel Chapoutier in the Rhône feels it is not rigorous enough, and so uses the rival Biodyvin organization, the formation of which Olivier Humbrecht played a major role. The latter focuses on wine production unlike Demeter, and claims much cheaper joining costs. Costs of certification for Demeter certification are ongoing – in New Zealand grapegrowers are charged flat fees according to the area of their vineyards, while wineries are charged 0.5 percent of sales in the first year and 1 percent thereafter.
Demeter USA has caused friction by trademarking the term "biodynamic" in the US, so no one can call their wine biodynamic unless they are certified by Demeter. Biodynamics, however are not directly recognized by the USDA, requiring Demeter to have a sister company (Stellar), which gains NOP-recognized organic certification as part of their process.
In organic farming, 300 or more certification bodies provide a bewildering choice, variation of rules, and potential dilution of consumer confidence. The EU, and USDA's National Organic Program provides a federal regulatory framework for these bodies, and the USDA Organic and EU leaf logo appear on a wine along with the details of the certifier. The German-based IFOAM (Organic International) is a non-profit umbrella body which also accredits certifiers. US wine companies can also apply through the NOP program for funding towards the certification costs.
Some producers practice biodynamics but certify their wines as organic. This may be down to technical issues, or a feeling that organic certification is a stronger sales tool. Milton Estate, in Gisborne, New Zealand, is certified with Demeter as one of the first 10 or so biodynamic wine estates in the world, but is also certified organic with Biogro to facilitate access to new export markets.
This all makes it hard for consumers to differentiate the categories and identify organic wines; some reliance on well-informed distributors and retailers is required. Wine-Searcher has found no useful convention among online retailers regarding identification; currently we have to limit ourselves to identifying those wines that have the words organic or biodynamic in their product name.
The routine of biodynamics might have as much efficacy as the buried cowhorns and capering goats.
© Wikimedia Commons | The routine of biodynamics might have as much efficacy as the buried cowhorns and capering goats. In conversion
Certification is not an immediate process. The various organic agencies typically take three years or more to certify a producer or property. In conversion status usually implies that organic methods have been adhered to for one to two years.
The process for biodynamic certification through Demeter USA also takes three years, or one year from initial inspection if the vineyard is already certified organic. If initial assessment and published report indicates that certification can be achieved within the three-year time frame, and there is a five-year plan for whole-farm conversion, then "in conversion" status may be referenced on labeling and point of sale material.
Recovery from exposure to chemicals
Predicting how long a vineyard will take to fully recover from previous use of synthetic pesticides and other chemicals is an incredibly difficult topic. The typical three-year timescales for certification are based on establishing auditable practices, not absolute effects.
The definition of full recovery for soil may be a moving target in terms of traces of chemicals and biological life. Different synthetic pesticides, for example, can vary greatly in terms of the time they take to break down, and variations in geology, topography, climate and weather can also have a major effect on timescales.
Copper sulfate and sulfur
The acceptance of the use of copper sulfate by organic and biodynamic certifying bodies is a reason commonly given against gaining certification by growers using organic methods, or used to justify working under the lutte raisonée banner. Bordeaux mixture (a mixture combining copper sulfate hydrated lime) has been sprayed on vines to combat downy mildew since the 19th Century.
This is a major contradiction to a definition of organic viticulture as the absence of synthetic chemicals. Also it reminds us that, while the development and use of full range of pesticides, herbicides and the rest progressed towards an orthodoxy in the 20th Century, we have been chemically damaging our vineyard soil for longer (that the human race has been exhausting soil through monoculture and other misadventures since the dawn of farming can be saved for another time).
But excess copper is toxic to many organisms; a build up leaves soil lifeless and without aeration from earthworms, as is the case in many parts of Bordeaux. The mixture was known as perico (parakeet) in the US because it turned vineyard workers blue – and killed many of them. Copper sulfate is slow to break down in fresh water and so can also damage biodiversity in nearby rivers.
In the modern era, growers with access to other chemicals to combat downy or powdery mildew and other fungi might use Bordeaux mixture once a year in the winter, and use alternate options at other times. Organic and biodynamic winegrowers often use it more regularly, as it is their main fungicide option, and the benefits of vine age mean that crop rotation – a key part of disease and pest prevention for most organic operations – is only an option for the inter-row, not the main crop.
While copper sulfate is used against downy mildew, preparations containing sulfur are typically used against powdery mildew in organic and biodynamic farming. This can be at odds with a full organic wine certification from the USDA, or with the concept of natural wine, as will be discussed further in part three.
Scientific reviews of organic and biodynamic vineyards
Many scientific trials have been held comparing organic and/or biodynamic vineyards to conventionally farmed ones. No clear picture seems to have emerged. For example, a New Zealand organic vineyard trial showed mixed results; over three years, three wineries divided two blocks in half and farmed one half conventionally and one half according to Biogro-certified practices. Gibbston Valley Estate in Central Otago preferred their organic Pinot Gris, but thought the two 2014 Pinot Noirs were very similar, and thought a decision to expand their organic program was more about the land than the wines. In contrast, Mission Estate in Hawke's Bay had an overwhelming preference for the Merlot and Syrah from their organic block and felt it warranted full conversion at the end of the project. Wither Hills in Marlborough felt that while other costs broadly balanced out in comparison, the lower yields seen meant that they would not expand their organic commitment.
It is no easier to compare biodynamic and organic vineyards with each other. Modern emphasis on cover cropping, polyculture and crop rotation was not part of Rudolf Steiner's original teachings, and belongs more to the organic movement from the 1940s onwards. As many techniques – both beneficial and problematic – are used in both methodologies, scientific trials comparing the two are often made very difficult. Most studies struggle to identify any distinct benefits to the most unique elements of biodynamic; the preparations.
This returns us to the idea (mentioned in part one) that the main difference might be supplied by the routine provided to the vineyard worker by the biodynamic calendar. However adherents of biodynamics are likely to view the system holistically, not overly concerned with which aspect provides the edge that many of the major estates practicing biodynamics feel they have detected via the tasting of the end product after their own vineyard parcel trials.
In many organic and biodynamic vineyards horses provide both motive power and plentiful fertilizer.
© Michel Magnien | In many organic and biodynamic vineyards horses provide both motive power and plentiful fertilizer. Neighbors
An organic grower may be prevented from gaining certification because of the approach of neighbors, for example if chemical sprays drift across the boundary on the wind. It is not uncommon for a move to organic farming to prompt the bringing on board of nearby growers.
Governments (especially in France) have tended not to discriminate between organic and non-organic vineyards when it comes to fighting problems in wine regions. In a 2014 high-profile court case, Beaune-based Emmanuel Giboulout, whose 10 hectares (25 acres) have been farmed organically, then biodynamically, for decades, was convicted and fined for flouting a law requiring producers to use a chemical pesticide against the leafhopper insect, which spreads the deadly flavescence dorée virus.
Similarly, in 1994, helicopters sprayed large parts of the Languedoc to combat the same pests. An organic grower whose vineyard undergoes such aerial bombardment can only promise that they personally have not added chemicals to the vineyard. The only non-chemical counter-proposals to guard against this virus involve a long-term encouraging of biodiversity to increase natural predators of the leafhopper, and sprays, which equates to asking neighbors to go organic.
Production costs, bottle prices
Adolfo Hurtado of Concha y Toro estimates that the production costs of organic wineries are around 30 percent higher than those of conventional vineyards. Reasons include the price tag of some organic preparations, such as the predatory fungi Trichoderma, which is used against mildew. Labor costs associated with composting is another key component affecting the bottom line, as are requirements for specialized equipment. In the previously mentioned New Zealand project, more money was spent on weeding, but this was compensated by lower spending on herbicides. Yield reductions can put off many businesses, as mentioned above, though generalizations are difficult.
Biodynamics requires perhaps 10-15 percent higher labor costs to conform to follow the schedule of the lunar calendar and produce the various preparations and composts, and deploy them. Any available pre-made materials are likely to be expensive, in part due to economies of scale. Then, for both methodologies, we can potentially add on the costs of certification, as mentioned above. However some costs, such as those associated with canopy management, might be reduced in some vineyards.

However the picture is still murky. For example it seems vineyard size can have a major impact when comparing production costs of biodynamics to conventional farming. A 2010 study from the University of Adelaide suggested economy of scale and methodology costs have a complex relationship, with small vineyards 12 percent more expensive to run biodynamically, medium-sized biodynamic vineyards (3 to 9.9 hectares) 63 percent more expensive, and vineyards bigger than 10ha actually slightly cheaper on average to run biodynamically.
Demand
Space prevents an overview here of statistical trends for demand organic and biodynamic wine. Not only does this seem to vary by market, but it is also difficult to isolate wine – a subsidiary segment of the greater organic beverage sector, which is in turn a minor part of organic food and drink demand as a whole.
Many comments link demand to increases in the number and area of vineyards being farmed organically, though this is not done only to meet demand. Rate of increase is hard to pin down, but it does seem organic and biodynamic wine production continues to increase.
In my own experience, only a tiny percentage of customers saw organic – in an ecological sense – as a primary buying criterion, and many of these tended also to be value-oriented buyers. For those willing to pay the price premium, the emphasis on organic or biodynamic credentials was inseparable from requirements for quality. This does however echo the motivations of many wine producers.
In my last retail stint in the early 2010s far more people asked me for natural wine, concerned about possible links between sulfite levels and health risks, or the short-term symptoms they encountered when drinking wine. In the final part of this series we focus on organic and biodynamic practices in the winery, the concept of natural wine, and the health concerns of wine drinkers.


 Comentario de / Comment of Wines Inform Assessors:


Ya hace años como productor agrario tuve que enfrentarme a la realidad de que los controladores de productos orgánicos son más un negocio que una actividad de ilusión y mejora del mundo y a que la complicada normativa pierde el hilo del objetivo fundamental de ofrecer a los consumidores productos garantizados y de calidad
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For years as producer I had to face the reality that organic product controllers are more a business than an activity of illusion and improvement of the world as the complicated rules lose the thread of the fundamental objective of offering to consumers guaranteed products and quality


Wines Inform Assessors


Origin information: Wine Searcher

Monastrell/Mataró/Mourvedre...In Spain and Australia ... Comentario de / Comment of Wines Inform Assessors


Monastrell/Mataró/Mourvedre...In Spain and Australia

James Halliday
Mataro is the name South Australia uses for mourvedre, and is most widely used in the Barossa Valley. It was called esparte at Great Western, Victoria, until the late 1960s. The Spanish name is monastrell, which has 58,000ha of the global total of 70,000ha planted, making Australia’s 729ha decidedly anaemic. Nonetheless, its crush increased by more than 37% in 2017 – the second-highest rise, marginally behind durif (both from a small base), with 6577 tonnes crushed.
It’s a late-ripening variety, and has been prone to producing wines high in alcohol and tannin, best blended with shiraz and grenache. But as these five wines demonstrate, it can be made very well with modest alcohol levels and controlled tannins. Dean Hewitson’s Old Garden Mourvedre is a national liquid treasure.
Comentario de / Comment of Wines Inform Assessors:
En España se están haciendo excelentes vinos con la variedad Monastrell
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In Spain they are being produced excellent wines with the variety Monastrell
Origin information: Halliday Wine Companion
                           

martes, 29 de agosto de 2017

Castilla-La Mancha: Precio de la uva 2017 ... Comment of / Comentario de Wines Inform Assessors


Precio de la uva 2017

Los primeros precios de la uva, en Castilla-La Mancha, como cada vendimia, ofrecidos en primicia por El Correo del Vino.


 

Prima transporte 0.01202 €/Kilo (2 Ptas/Kilo)


Comment of / Comentario de Wines Inform Assessors:


I note the lack of feedback and comments from the producers against these low prices
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Noto a faltar la reacción y comentarios de los productores frente a estos precios tan bajos


Origen información: El Correo del Vino