Spain Reigns
Fresh talent and modern techniques in emerging regions have rejuvenated the Spanish winemaking industry
Leslie Sbrocco, Special to The Chronicle - Thursday, February 10, 2005
When it comes to wine, Spain has been compared to a sleeping giant. As the country with the most land devoted to growing wine grapes in the world, giant is a fitting term. The sleeping part, however, is passe. This giant is wide awake and flexing its muscles.
While France and Italy have seen declines in the amount of their vineyard land over the past six years, plantings have steadily increased across Spain. Vineyards now cover nearly 3 million acres of countryside and Spain accounts for more than 15 percent of the world's total vineyard land, according to Wines from Spain, the official wine organization of the Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade. Similar increases in wine production have pushed Spain into second place behind France as the world's largest wine producing country.
"The interest in Spanish wines has peaked recently because Spain has reasserted itself as a dynamic force in the international wine scene," says Adam Savin, wine director of San Rafael's Sabor of Spain, a year-old store that sells Spanish culinary products. David Rickenbaker, general manager of K & L Wine Merchants in San Francisco agrees, saying, "The Spanish category has exploded over the last four years. We used to have around 10 selections and now we have 63."
Spanish wine was once defined by tired, dried-out reds from Rioja or fortified sherries produced around the town of Jerez de la Frontera in southern Spain. Traditional winemaking technique included extended barrel aging and allowing wines to oxidize to conform to local tastes. Wine was made the same way for centuries.
Fortunately, those days are gone -- the anchor of the Iberian Peninsula is undergoing a vinous renaissance.
Spanish wine has been transformed through a combination of factors including new technology, changing tastes and an infusion of winemaking talent. "By applying modern techniques to working with a wealth of interesting indigenous grape varietals, a new generation of winemakers is creating beautifully crafted wines," says Savin.
Though Spain's wine history dates back more than 3,000 years, it has seen cycles of decline and growth. The industry suffered in the 20th century due to the isolation caused by the Spanish Civil War and the subsequent 40-year reign of Generalisimo Francisco Franco. When Spain fully rejoined the international community in the 1970s, the wine world had changed dramatically.
Some younger members of winemaking families challenged traditional methods to create modern wines that respected their birthplace yet still appealed to an international palate. Miguel Torres updated his family's centuries-old winemaking traditions; Alejandro Fernandez of Bodega Pesquera put Ribera del Duero on the map; and Rene Barbier began the renaissance in Priorat with his Clos Mogador wines.
In the United States pioneers of another type - importers - spurred the awareness of quality Spanish wines. Steve Metzler opened Classical Wines in Seattle in 1984 with his wife, Almudena de Llaguno, and showcased authentic yet modern expressions of Spanish wine. Shortly thereafter several other key importers such as Jorge Ordonez of Massachusetts-based Fine Estates From Spain and Eric Solomon of North Carolina-based European Cellars shone the spotlight on Spain.
Their work was important because it helped create a market for quality Spanish wines from another generation of winemaking pioneers like Telmo Rodriguez, who makes wines all across Spain in modern styles; Alvaro Palacios, the star of Priorat whose L'Ermita wines are coveted worldwide; and Danish expatriate Peter Sisseck, whose Dominio de Pingus might be the most-sought Spanish wine today. .
Working with native grape varieties including Tempranillo, Verdejo, Albarino, Mencia, Monastrell and Garnacha in emerging regions such as Toro, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Rías Baixas, Bierzo, Jumilla and Priorat, bold Spanish winemakers craft some of the most exciting wines on today's market.
About a third of Spanish wine is exported. The United Kingdom and Germany are the top two markets; the United States is third. Between 2001 and 2003 Spanish wine exports to the United States grew more than 18 percent, much faster than the other top markets, according to Wines from Spain.
So, grab a glass -- there has never been a better time to explore the diversity of Spanish wine.
TORO REGION
In Spanish toro means bull. These animals do roam the countryside of Toro, but despite the similarities between the bull's power and the strength of the region's wines, Toro is actually named after a town perched above the nearby Duero River.
"The wines from Toro are brimming with tradition. Their origins date back to before the settlements of the Romans and it is said that the wine Christopher Columbus took on his journey to discover America was from Toro," says Jose Manuel Azofra of Bodega Numanthia Termes, one of Toro's top wineries.
Living history is evident in Toro, which is home to some of the world's most ancient grapevines. Sandy soil prevented phylloxera, a vine disease that decimated France's vineyards during the 1800s, from devastating the area. Bodega Numanthia makes its coveted wine Termanthia from pre-phylloxera vines more than 150 years old.
Even though the region has undergone long periods of neglect, today many of Spain's notable winemakers are investing in Toro. One of the hottest is Bodegas Mauro, begun by Mariano Garcia, the former winemaker of the famous Vega Sicilia winery in Ribera del Duero, and his sons Eduardo and Alberto. This producer has pedigree and is helping to bring Toro to the forefront of Spain's wine scene.
Major wine style: big reds
For lovers of bold reds, Toro is for you. Though other varieties such as Garnacha are planted, the celebrated grape of the region is Tinta de Toro. A local name for Spain's trademark red variety Tempranillo, Tinta de Toro has adapted over time to the harsh conditions of Toro. A high-altitude plateau with low rainfall and extreme temperature swings, Toro produces grapes with power and concentration.
Anne Pickett, Spanish wine buyer for K & L Wine Merchants, says, "Even though Tempranillo is the same grape used in the famous regions of Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Toro, you couldn't have more different expressions in each place. Rioja is like Burgundy, Ribera del Duero like Bordeaux and Toro is packed with pure New-World punch."
RIBERA DEL DUERO REGION
If you have sipped Spanish wines in the past few years, it's likely you've sampled one from Ribera del Duero. The region has been on the world wine map since Vega Sicilia was founded there in 1864.
In modern times, Ribera del Duero gained fame due to pioneer vintner Alejandro Fernandez of Bodega Pesquera. When wine critic Robert M. Parker Jr. bestowed his praise on Pesquera's wine in the early 1980s, investment flowed into the area and it was touted as the next Rioja, but producers took more than a decade to live up to the acclaim.
Today, Vega Sicilia and Pesquera share headlines with cult wines like Dominio de Pingus, made by Peter Sisseck. These stars have placed Ribera del Duero on the global wine stage.
"The marriage of the region's quality fruit with new technology has helped Ribera del Duero develop some of the world's most sought-after wines," says winemaker Javier Aladro of Bodegas Valdubon.
Major wine style: seductive, structured reds
"Ribera is simply born elegant," says Vega Sicilia's technical director, Xavier Ausas Lopez de Castro.
The birthplace of these stylish wines is only a several-hour drive from modern Madrid, yet Ribera del Duero's rugged landscape is dotted with rustic farms and ancient castles. Weaving along the banks of the Duero River (ribera means river bank or shore), the region's climate creates a long growing season, which encourages grapes to develop intensity and structure. In youth, reds made from Tempranillo, or Tinto Fino as it's called locally, are fruit-forward and bright. With ageing, they gain their trademark suppleness.
BIERZO REGION
If there is one region that industry insiders are buzzing about, Bierzo is it. Metzler of Classical Wines says Bierzo is hot on his list these days.
"From my earliest research in Spain dating to the mid-1970s, I sought terroirs that would produce power without sacrificing balance and elegance," Metzler says.
That describes Bierzo's velvety reds perfectly. Bierzo is situated in the mountainous region of northwestern Spain between the high plateaus of Ribera del Duero and Toro and the lush, green coastline of western Spain. With its patchwork of small vineyards on steep tree-shrouded slopes, it's reminiscent of a rustic version of Piedmont, the great northern Italian wine region.
To understand Bierzo is to understand its central location on the Camino de Santiago (road to Santiago). Over centuries pilgrims would come from across Europe to pay homage to the burial site of Saint James at the cathedral in the coastal city of Santiago de Compostela. Though vines were certainly planted during Roman inhabitation, the influence of these pilgrims during medieval times contributed to the area's diverse culture and rich wine history.
Major wine style: unique, sleek reds
The primary red grape in Bierzo is one most have never heard of, much less tasted - Mencia. It was long thought to be related to Cabernet Franc, a French variety brought along on pilgrims' travels. Similarities do exist with Cabernet Franc's floral aromas and mineral notes, but wines made from Mencia are also reminiscent of a silky Pinot Noir or a pretty Italian Nebbiolo.
Winemaker Raul Perez of Bierzo's Bodegas Estefania, which makes the highly regarded Tilenus wines, says, "Bierzo wines based on the unique Mencia grape are fashionable today because they are an excellent alternative. Today people know more about wine and want to be surprised with new flavors and bouquets."
PRIORAT REGION
On the other side of the country from Bierzo lies Priorat, named after the historic Priorato de Scala Dei, a 12th century monastery. Not far from the bustling city of Barcelona on the Mediterranean coastline, Priorat is a seemingly inhospitable yet hauntingly beautiful place. Vineyards are planted on steep, granite-laden hillsides below towering cliff faces of the Sierra de Montsant.
Like most Spanish wine regions, Priorat has a vast wine history but was neglected due to its remoteness. In the 1980s Rene Barbier became one of Spain's famous names as he tried to revitalize Priorat with his now-legendary Clos Mogador wines. Coupled with the determination of young winemakers like Dafne Glorian and Alvaro Palacios (now a Spanish wine icon), wines from Priorat began their ascent to the top of the world wine scene.
Major wine style: earthy, concentrated reds
"Priorat, working mainly with Carinena and Garnacha grape varietals, is a spectacular growing region with revitalized vineyards that make for richly concentrated wines," says Savin at Sabor of Spain.
Garnacha, or Grenache as it's known in other parts of the world, can produce wines that are deceptively powerful. Not as inky dark in color as Toro, they nonetheless pack a serious punch. The elusive but distinctive quality in Priorat reds whether made from Carinena, Garnacha or the now-present Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot is called llicorella - a mineral character imparted to the grapes by the vine's roots digging deep into the slate soil to find water.
RIAS BAIXAS REGION
For white wine lovers looking to buy Spanish, say "Rias Baixas" (pronounced ree-AHSH buy-SHUS). These refreshing, food-friendly whites need to be at the top of your list.
Rias Baixas is located across the border from Portugal along the Atlantic coastline of Spain. The larger area is Galicia with its own language - Gallego - and it's a world away from what most people imagine as Spain. Lush, green mountains are a backdrop for sandy beaches and dramatic rias (fjords) rising from the sea.
Spain's juxtaposition of modern technology with ancient culture is most apparent in Rias Baixas. Copious amounts of rainfall create humid conditions where grapes are still trellised on the old system of tall pergolas to keep them free from moisture, but cellars are brimming with stainless steel tanks and the latest winemaking equipment. Though the area dates back to Celtic times, the white wine revolution started here in the past several decades. It's in full swing and the result is wines of amazing quality.
Major wine style: racy, revved-up whites
The star white grape in Rias Baixas is Albarino. Though other white grapes such as Treixadura may be part of a blend, the buzz is all about Albarino's citrusy freshness wrapped around a strong backbone of acidity. Rumor has it that Albarino is related to Riesling brought over centuries ago by German monks on a pilgrimage, although locals insist it's native to the area. Importer Metzler says, "A $20 Albarino that is properly ripened is less similar to Riesling and more like a $30 (to) $40 Viognier or Sauvignon Blanc in a zippier style." No wonder these wines are perfect complements to seafood dishes.
Toro wines
2003 Dehesa Gago G Toro ($12) -- From the hands of one of Spain's most creative and passionate winemakers, Telmo Rodriguez, comes this affordable yet intense red.
2003 Dos Victorias Elias Mora Toro ($22) -- By up-and-coming winemaking stars Victoria Pariente and Victoria Benavides, this aromatic, balanced wine is powerful and supple.
2002 Numanthia Tinta de Toro ($50) -- Black fruit flavors are accented by mineral and cocoa aromas in a rich, decadent wine worthy of both the table and the cellar.
2003 Bodega Mauro Prima Toro ($16) -- This young, fruit-driven wine captures Toro's trademark dark coloring and juicy richness.
2001 Bodega Mauro San Roman Toro ($45) -- Massive, inky purple, complex and daringly dense, this cellar-worthy wine is the pure expression of Tinta de Toro.
Ribera del Duero wines
2003 Torremoron Ribera del Duero Tempranillo ($11) -- An entry-level wine that's fresh and vibrant. Not overly serious, but packed with berry fruitiness.
2000 Legaris Crianza Ribera del Duero ($18) -- Layered and lush with hints of cracked pepper in the aroma and dark cherry jam flavors, this is a lovely expression of Ribera.
2000 Valdubon Reserva Ribera del Duero ($24) -- This winery is part of the Heredad Collection of Spanish wineries owned by the Ferrer family, which also owns Gloria Ferrer in Sonoma. The wine is ultra-smooth with dark cherry fruit flavors and a touch of peppery spice.
2002 Pesquera Ribera del Duero Tinto ($25) -- Classic Ribera with earthy notes and ripe red fruit. A seductive style that still showcases bright acidity and strong tannins.
2000 Condado de Haza Reserva Ribera del Duero ($34) -- Another notable property of Alejandro Fernandez that focuses on a richer, even more supple style than Pesquera. White chocolate aromas intermingle with black fruit flavors and a plush texture.
2001 Aalto Ribera del Duero ($45) -- Created by a dream team including winemaker Mariano Garcia, this superstar wine is concentrated and smooth. Though enjoyable now, it will age gracefully.
Bierzo wines
2002 Pittacum Bierzo ($20) -- Love Pinot Noir? This rose-petal scented wine with a silky texture is for you.
2000 Tilenus Crianza Bierzo Mencia ($24) -- This wine is so sleek and supple you can't put it down. Hints of minerality on the nose combine with dark berry fruit and a supple mouth-feel.
2000 Tilenus Pagos de Posada Reserva Bierzo Mencia ($40) -- Darker than the Crianza with a velvety texture and intense complexity.
2003 Dominio de Tares Bierzo Mencia ($16) -- Another top-notch producer making aromatic, silky reds to fall in love with. This wine is worth twice the price.
2002 Dominio de Tares Bembibre Bierzo Mencia ($45) -- From select vineyard plots of almost 100-year-old vines, the licorice, mineral intensity of this red inspires oohs and aahs with every sip.
Priorat wines
2002 Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses Priorat ($30) -- Palacios is known more for his expensive powerhouse wines L'Ermita and Finca Dofi, but this little brother to those wines is tremendous. Herbal aromas marry seamlessly with dark, almost dried fruit flavors, and restrained power.
2002 Scala Dei Negre Priorat ($15) -- What a deal this licorice-scented, earthy and intense wine is to get your feet (or palate) wet with the essence of Priorat.
2002 Pasanau Ceps Nous Priorat ($20) -- A blend of Garnacha, Merlot, Mazuelo (Carinena) and Syrah that is plush and lush but still tinged with distinctive mineral notes.
2001 Morlanda Crianza Priorat ($48) -- This is terroir -- the expression of the place in the glass. Dried cherries and dusty, earthy aromas entice you to sip the wine, which follows through with balanced tannins and a long, spicy finish.
Rias Baixas wines
2003 Condes de Albarei Rias Baixas Albarino ($14) -- A well-known and widely available producer of Albarino captures the grape's zesty lemon-lime flavors and vibrant character in this wine.
2003 Condes de Albarei Salneval Rias Baixas Albarino ($9) -- Put away that Sauvignon Blanc and pick up this zesty, entry-level Albarino. It makes a great party wine.
2003 Vionta Rias Baixas Albarino ($18) -- Riper in style with melon notes and a touch of creaminess on the palate. Ideal with lobster and fleshy fish.
2003 Fillaboa Rias Baixas Albarino ($16) -- Beautiful richness and peach flavors pair up with taut acidity in an impeccably balanced white.
2003 Lusco Rias Baixas Albarino ($23) -- A stunner. Mineral and floral aromas are rounded out by passion fruit notes and sleek texture.
Look on the label for Spanish importers
Buying wine from a trusted importer generally means you are going to get a top-rate bottle. Look on the back label for the logo of these three importers largely credited with creating the awareness of quality Spanish wine in the United States:
-- Classical Wines
-- Fine Estates from Spain/Jorge Ordonez Selections
-- European Cellars/Eric Solomon Selections
Other rising star importers:
-- Grapes of Spain/Aurelio Cabestrero Selections
-- CIV Imports
-- Vinos & Gourmet Inc./Jose Pastor Selections
Leslie Sbrocco is author of "Wine for Women: A Guide to Buying, Pairing and Sharing Wine" (William Morrow, 2003).
Origin:
Sabor of Spain
