Feature: Vinoble Fair was More Than Sweet

Feature: Vinoble Fair was More Than Sweet

The recently concluded sixth edition of Vinoble – the Show exclusively of Noble wines, offered a feast of dessert and natural sweet wines but equally enjoyable were some of the best sherries, reports Subhash Arora who was present again at the show.
Spanish Visitors at the Tokaj standNobel wines include Fortified, Dessert and Special Sweet Wines, and this is perhaps the only show in the world which focuses on these special wines. It attracted 23 countries and about 100 wine producing regions to Jerez from 25-28 May, with over 1200 labels to taste.It was a unique setting for tasting the Sauternes and the botrytis wines of France, be it a tasting at the tented stands of Arab Gardens, or a guided tasting of the legendry Chateau d'Yquem at the historical old mosque of the splendid Arab Alcazar, or a food and wine pairing with the Chinese cuisine.
The ice wines produced in Germany and Canada were present including the Constellation Brands-owned Inniskillin. There was also an interesting ice wine from Croatia and even a non icewine from the leading Cava producer Gramona, which showcased the wines made from grapes boxed in cold refrigerator, tasting like one but selling for a third the price of the real thing.
A sherry to cherish-Osborne Palo Cortado-Rare Sherry Solera P*PHungarian Tokaj was present with its usual seductive long-living Aszu selves, from Oremus and Disznoko, among others. Muscatels from California, Chile and the partner country Greece were there and so were the portly Ports from Portugal. Late vintages from Lebanon, Switzerland, New Zealand and Uruguay; Marsala from Italy; noble rots from Austria and South Africa; sweet wines from the unknown Mexico, Jordan, the Czech Republic and even Georgia participated to catch the attention of the buyers. There was even a sweet Tanat from Uruguay and one from Holland which claimed to be specially suitable for the spicy Indian food.
Says John Salvi MW who is a wine consultant from Bordeaux and a veteran visitor of the show attending all shows but one, 'Vinoble is like a home coming for me and I always look forward to coming here every two years. It is fantastic they way the show has taken off. Earlier, the organisers had trouble getting the sweet wine producers to exhibit. But now every serious player in the world making sweet wines wants to participate in the show.'
Sherries and Sweet wines of Spain
Practically all the regions producing noble wines from Spain were present. As at all the previous exhibitions, the wineries of Jerez were especially highlighted, both through the Regulating Council and through the numerous wineries that attended at their individual stand.
The fortified wines of the Condado de Huelva, the Pedro Ximénez from Montilla-Moriles and Muscatels from Malaga were a repeat from last time. One also could taste fondillons from Alicante, muscatels from Navarre and Valencia, Malmsey from the Canaries, sweet wines from Penedés, Jumilla, Yecla, Ribera del Duero and Toro; late vintages from Rueda, and La Mancha.
Vinoble is perhaps the only place in the world where one can taste some of the best and unlimited variety of sherries even over 30 years old (VORS). One could taste Finos, Amontillados, Olorosos, Palo Cortados, Cream, Pale Cream, Pedro Ximénez, Moscateles and Manzanillas which have given international recognition to the Sherry wines of Jerez.
John Salvi salivating for the best sherries of the world at the stand of Consejo ReguladorA special feature was central tasting organised by Consejo Regulador, a key highlight for the sherry lovers. Adds Salvi, 'it is a Mecca for those who are truly passionate about Sherries; I am one of them. Every single wonderful sherry is at the show and the producers bring out their best at the show. The best part is that they all have something at the top end which is of excellent quality. Most have a stock of old vintages which is rare to see elsewhere.'
Lustau, Hidalgo, Pedro Romero, Williams & Humbert, Gil Luque, Gonzales Byass, Osborne, Harvey's, Domecq, Tradición, Gutiérrez are a few of the quality sherry producers who were all there.
The beautiful palace is worth visiting for all its grandeur even when the show is not on. Jerez is one of the old beautiful cities from the Moorish period, with the old city providing a unique feel of the Arab architecture, with the high fashion stores giving the modern touch. The afternoon siesta is still a tradition that carries on due to the heat at this time of the year, though rain gods ensured the occasional use of warm clothing during the first couple of days at the show this year.
Sherry Butts (barrels) maturing under the Solera SystemSherry and sweet wines have not been popular thus far in India. There has been some forward thinking in the Indian diaspora in imbibing sweet wines and sherry during the last couple of years, though. The DLF owned Aman Resorts Hotel coming up near the Oberoi, in Delhi will open in November. It plans to sell 12 Sherries by the glass. Icewine, late harvest wines and Tokaj are already being imported.
The next edition of Vinoble in May 2010 is bound to create a lot of interest amongst the Indian importers. One hopes that the organisers give a serious thought to my suggestion of organising tasting of the extremely popular Indian cuisine with sweet wines-provided they can organise the event better.
The Chinese cuisine and sweet wine tasting was over-crowed, disastrous and very poorly organised- there has been no improvement over the previous event's fiasco, one of the very few negatives of the Show which is well-focussed unlike many mega wine shows on earth.
Subhash Arora



Origin information: Indian Wine Academy