|Victoria Moore has been writing about wine and all other kinds of drinks since 1998 and joined the Telegraph as wine correspondent in October 2010|
Calatayud smiles. His boutique wines are made from vines grown at altitude in the hills between Valencia and Alicante on the eastern side of Spain. Valencia and the surrounding areas of Utiel-Requena, Manchuela, Yecla and Jumilla were once renowned only to exporters of bulk wine, for the cheapness and the quantity of the plonk they were able to produce. But Spain has changed. If the phrase “Spanish wine” still only brings to mind rioja, sherry, cava and ribera del duero, then you need an update.