Prestigious Torres wines rooted in tradition, yet daring

Prestigious Torres wines rooted in tradition, yet daring

Spanish firm boosts revival of indigenous varieties

Nick Lees, The Edmonton JournalPublished: Wednesday, November 07
Miguel Torres, whose family wine company has set many benchmarks in Spain, has been handed a fistful of the world's most prestigious awards.
He traces the family's winemaking roots to the 17th century and today is considered the pioneer of modern Spanish wine.
Naturally, he has a bit of the flash and dash of forebearer Jamie Torres, who, in 1870, used a fortune made in Cuba to build the first Torres winery.

Jamie Torres installed the world's biggest wine vat and announced its arrival by hosting a dinner in it for the king of Spain.
In a day when many international producers only make it to Calgary -- better flight connections -- the visit of Torres' son Miguel Torres Jr. last week was much appreciated by the trade.
In fact, on behalf of all, Hardware Grill chef/owner Larry Stewart presented him with an Oilers' jersey, suitably inscribed "Torres" on the back.
Torres Jr. spoke of the family's history and proudly told of that day at a Paris tasting in 1979 when his father, who had introduced international grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, to Spain, saw his Torres Black Label victorious over the likes of Chateau-Latour and other famed Bordeaux wines.
The wine, now known as Single Vineyard Mas La Plana, can be found in Edmonton in limited quantities.
The company is supporting also the revival of old indigenous varieties and in 1996 launched Grans Muralles, a red made from Garanacha Tinta, Monastrell and little-known Garro and Samso.
The Torres company, which has vineyards in California, China and many other parts of Spain, is credited with moving winemaking in Chile along by a decade. It bought land there in 1979 and introduced temperature control and stainless steel equipment.
The Torres company makes nearly four million cases of wine and exports to more than 130 countries.
Torres Jr. said his dad was smart and didn't tell him he had to go into the wine business after university. "Every Sunday we had to make an excursion into a vineyard," he says.
"By the time I was 16, wine was part of my life."
Torres Jr., who did a stint in the perfume industry before joining the family business, said there has been a problem at times when hotels mistook his name for that of his father's.
"Sometimes when I check into an hotel, I find the bed has been tilted up," he said. "That is a request my father always makes."
NOTES FROM WINES TASTED
Torres Vina Esmeralda, Catalunya, Spain, 2006, $16. A delicate, exotically perfumed white wine, a 85-15 per cent blend of Moscatel and Gewurztraminer, to pair with fish and lighter dishes with sweet sauces.
Single Vineyard Vina Fransola, Penedes, Spain, 2006, $27. A voluptuous, full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc that will stand up to some quite hearty fare.
Marimar Estate Chardonnay, Don Miguel Vineyards, Green Valley, Sonoma County, 2004, $43. A classy, lush, creamy, rounded, organic Chardonnay framed in deft oak.
Marimar Estate Pinot Noir, Don Miguel Vineyard, Russian River Appellation, Sonoma County, 2003, $43. Concentrated fruit with floral overtones and a creamy texture in an elegant, supple, well-balanced wine.Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon, Curico, Chile, 2004, $16. A big, full-bodied, elegant wine, with forward fruit on the nose. Some cellar potential.
Torres Celeste, Ribera del Durero, Spain, 2004, $26. An opulent wine, with hints of ripened blackberries, cherries, spice and black pepper on the nose. Full-bodied with ripe tannins on the palate. Cellar at least six of seven years.
Single Vineyard Cordillera, Central Valley, Chile, 2003, $28. Grapes from old vines in high valleys in the Andes produced this elegant blend of Syrah, Merlot and Carinena. A powerful wine, a cross between Chilean and Spanish styles. Notes of blueberry and blackcurrant jams, with hints of cloves, tobacco and pepper. Should cellar a decade.
Torres Salmos, Priorat, Spain, 2005, $32. This is the first vintage of this powerful, elegant wine. Only 6,800 cases made. Fragrant and minerals on the nose. The palate hints at jam and licorice underpinned by spice and toasty oak.
Single Vineyard Mas La Plana, Penedes, Spain, 2003, $46. Torres most prestigious wine, a Cabernet Sauvingon, that triumphed at the 1970 Paris Wine Olympiad. Will age well.
Torres Conde Superunda, Curico, Chile, 2001, $50. A wine that should be popped in the cellar for six years and served with food. It's a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvingon, Monastrell and Carmenere. An aroma of mint, cassis, tobacco, pepper and black cherry. The rich, dry palate shows notes of cherry, black olive, spice and pepper.
Grans Muralles Single Vineyard, Conca de Barbera DO, Chile, 2001, $90. Cistercian monks have cultivated this vineyard since the 13th century.
Exotic, complex aromas and a richly structured palate. Only 2,000 cases (six bottles each) produced. Some 56 cases have been allocated to Alberta.

Origin: Edmonton Journal