Fall Wine: 20 Under $20

Eric Asimov / The New York Times

Eric Asimov

A good value is not the same as cheap. You can find decent wines for $5, $10 or even $15, but rarely will you find wines that snap you to attention, fill you with wonder or simply move you by their sheer deliciousness.

For those qualities, which some may regard as luxuries but I believe are necessities, you need to spend a little more, say $15 to $25. Today, this range is the bull’s-eye for great values in wine.

Focusing on the less expensive end of this range, I’ve picked 20 excellent bottles, all under $20. Each was chosen with an eye to the fall season. That doesn’t mean they are all red. Even in the depths of winter, our cuisine is varied, and so are the wines that go with those foods. But I’ve picked fewer whites than I would have in a summer selection, and most of the wines tend to be a little heftier in texture and warmer in character.

This list comprises mostly Old World wines. Some will question this, as so many inexpensive wines are available from regions in the Southern Hemisphere, for example, and North America. Others may wonder why I’ve included only two American wines. Unless I intend to focus only on one country, I put together each “20 Under $20” list with no set idea how it should all break down. I look around at retail shops, and include the best wines I try. I don’t keep track of origins and I have no quotas.

While I believe I have an open mind, I know this from experience and common sense: Countries that have been making wine for centuries have clear advantages in offering distinctive values. They have far more local traditions in winemaking, which means that the variety of grapes and styles of wine in France, Italy or Spain far surpass what are available from the United States.

In addition — for reasons of real estate, the cost of doing business and tradition — small estates, which tend to make more interesting inexpensive wines than corporate producers, have an easier time keeping prices low in Europe than in the United States. Some fine American producers who have conscientiously tried to offer great values have difficulty today keeping prices under $20 a bottle. Those that can sell their wines quickly.

Without question Americans can compete in producing some of the greatest wines in the world. Producing great values for less than $20 may be a bigger challenge.

Comment of Wines Inform Assessors:

Are interesting your reflections on wine prices.
For me, wine specialist living in Spain, a wine that demands more than 6-7 euro must demonstrate very much his uniqueness (quality, low production,...)
Also wines change with the vintages -I have in my mind a nasty case of a wine I have promoted at the Internet and among my acquaintances and shops. His last harvest is vulgar, having been for me the best wine in its category in Spain and also a wine under 6 euro (shop price)-
Relations between importers -producers must take into account many elements: the magic customer-facing personality of producers and importers, the human philosophy and business ethics of the parties ... that come with other elements more objectives as good labels and presentations, qualities , production capacity, corporate governance (logistics, reliability, ...)

Origin information: The New York Times