Winery Visits: Penedes & Priorat

Winery Visits: Penedes & Priorat

Monday, February 16, 2009
PENEDES

Vilarnau & Mont Marcal

We got up early Tuesday morning and pointed the rental car (a 3-cylinder Opal with the bitchiest Brit-voiced, temperamental navigation system ever made. "Maggie" became the butt of many jokes and threats for the next two days) to the mountains of Catalunya. We had three visits lined up in the Penedes (Cava country). Our first was with the makers of Subirats Cava Rosat, a regular feature at RCC. We met the lovely Marta Molina Ballesteros, head of PR and "Enoturismo". She gave us a tour of the very impressive facilities: exquisitely modern and landscaped office/warehouse/production building overlooking vineyards. Rotating art collections and state of the art eco-design. Very new school but still family owned. The winemaker and viticulturist are both women. Since we were there in February, the only action going on was in the stacks of slowly maturing cava bottles. I'll have to get the pictures here from Dave because as much as I love my iPhone, it has no flash. The rose is made from 100% Trepat, matured in bottle for 18 months before disgorgement**. Both the Vilarnau and later Mont Marcal facilities are built for production on a very large scale--the international world has a never ending thirst for cava and there's no romance in hand-riddling* hundreds of thousands of bottles. Robotics and precise mechanization take over in these volume oriented facilities. But they still make delicious, drinkable bubbly and no one can complain about that! Mont Marcal was similar in many aspects, 4 million bottles produced annually (with a bottling line that moves 3,000 bottles per hour) exported to 22 countries. While I appreciated our tour givers and the sips of fun, quaffable sparklers, at this point I was itching to get out of the warehouse and actually see some vines!*The process, after aging, of turning and upending Cava or Champagne so the yeast bodies deposit in the neck. A person takes two weeks to do this, a computerized geo-cage 2 days or less.**When all the yeast is deposited in the neck, it is flash frozen, the cap popped off and yeast plug allowed to shoot out. It is then quickly topped off and corked and caged, labeled and packed, ready for sale.

Can Feixes

So Dave and I headed off to our last (and best) stop of the day: Can Feixes. Their red was the first Catalunyan wine I ever had, so I already knew I was biased. But after getting lost (failing to turn left in a town that maybe was 100 feet long with only one turn--thanks Maggie) we drove up to the 16th century family house high up in the hills of Alt Penedes. Out came Joan, one of the three Huguet brothers that run the family owned winery. We shook hands and he motioned to the battered Land Rover and said, "Let's go see the vineyards." I knew this was going to be good! Joan drove us all over the family vineyards--all organic, some with 80 year old vines--explaining their connection to the land, the history of the property, his father's simultaneous talent of honoring traditional land-based winemaking and embracing technology, and the passion he and his brothers have for long term stewardship of the vines. I think Dave was enjoying the 45 degree hill climbs in the old Rover as much as I was enjoying the history lesson. We talked about organic vs. biodynamic viticulture, crop rotation, climate change, water management, and the concept of a multi-generational family business--a topic his brother Josep Maria would go into at length later. At one point we hopped out and he pointed to a spot near the tires: "Wild Pork" he said. It took me a minute to figure out he was showing me how much the wild boars love the grapes (they prefer red, not because of the flavor but because they stand out more from the foliage than green grapes). Then we drove back to the house to meet the winemaker (Josep Maria) and taste some fabulous wines. I presented them both with a bottle of Barboursville's Octagon 8th edition as a present and they seemed really pleased. That's when I noticed the awesome motif on the wing of the house: a smiling pair of peasants about to club a smiling pig. Ah, Jamon, my old friend!

To give you an idea of the differences between this kind of operation and the larger houses, Can Feixes has 80 vineyards on 350 hectares and produces a total of 250,000 bottles a year (one-sixteenth the production of Mont Marcal). All the fruit is picked by hand, and instead of irrigation they cross-plant or dig up water-holding herbs to control how much moisture gets to the vines. The Cava they produce is made mainly from Parallada, plus Malvaxia Sitges, Macabeo, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Parallada grows particularly well in this higher region and the vines average 25-3o years old. Because there is a light wind and no mist, there are no issues with rot or insects. Anticipating the ever warmer summers, they have begun planting grapes that can handle the heat like Petit Verdot. They cull each harvest to maintain consistency and quality, hand-selecting each cluster before pressing. Half the production is white wine, and 25% each goes to Cava and reds. The vineyard patches are small and spread around according to slope and soil type, so if a hail storm hits one section they haven't lost all of that varietal. The vineyards are also lined with Arbequina olive trees (but sadly they only make enough olive oil for friends and family).

In the cellars Josep Maria showed us the "history" section: original barrels and riddling racks used for centuries. It provides a link to the modern winemaking processes and shows both the carefully planned growth of the winery and also their commitment to natural methods (temperature and humidity control come from design rather than electricity hogging HVAC systems).

On to the tasting! We went through quite a lineup: The Huguet 2005 Cava Brut Nature (Parallada+Pinot Noir+Macabeo), the 2007 Seleccio Blanc Can Feixes (Parallada+Chardonnay+Malvaxia Sitges+Macabeo), the 2005 Chardonnay (100%), the 2005 Negre (Tempranillo [known locally as Ull de Llebre 'eye of the hare']+Cab+Merlot+Petit Verdot), and their elegant and ageable 2000 Reserva Especial (Cab+Melrot). We'll be tasting many of these out at the shop Friday 2/20 5-7 if you'd like to experience them yourself!Next up...Priorat!

Mas Igneus

The next morning we headed into the steep hills of Priorat, home of deep gorges and hearty reds. Curving along the winding roads we were amazed at how barren and wild the region was, with only small groupings of rocky, terraced vineyards poking out between rock formations every quarter of a mile or so. We met with Ian (the first of two Scottish expats I would encounter) the viticulturist and Franc the winemaker to tour the winery. Mas Igneus was the first certified organic property in Priorat, and their small (ten hectares total) but well edited selection is clearly terroir-driven. Primarily they grow Garnatxa Negra & Carinyena, but there are also small areas of Cabernet, Syrah, Merlot and native white varietals. The grapes are hand harvested (which, when you see the angle of the vineyard slopes is no surprise), hand selected, and the winemaking involves minimal intervention. The "FA206" is an intense, barrel aged red made from Garnatxa, Carinyena, Cab and Syrah with brambly fruit on the nose and balsam, spice, and plum notes on the finish. But don't take my word for it...come by Friday night and taste it yourself!After leaving Mas Igneus we had time to kill and empty bellies, so we drove into neighboring Morela Monsant. This town was so small we dubbed it a "three dog town" (and all three followed us around hoping for snacks). We ended up eating Jamon y Queso Bocadillos in a smoky little bar full of local construction workers and two of the dogs (who were rewarded for their vigilance with pigs' trotters), watching Spanish Wheel of Fortune. This would be in stark contrast to the exquisite eight-course tasting menu we almost missed later that night back in Barcelona because I thought "20:30" was 10:30. Sheesh.

Origin information: River City Cellars

The Sparkle of Spain

The Sparkle of Spain

Just west of Barcelona, in Spain's Catalonia, three generations of the winemaking Huguet family gather to toast the New Year, sharing a few favorite dishes as well as a few glasses of their Champagne-class cava
By Brian St. Pierre
In Catalonia, Spain, where the observance of saint's days and holidays is often centered around specific gastronomic traditions, one celebration tends to be rather free-form: New Year's Eve. As I discovered on my visit to the Huguet family at their wine estate, Can Feixes, this particular evening can be an occasion of unstructured elegance. According to patriarch Josep María Huguet, New Year's Eve at Can Feixes can be a time for opulent dishes like lobster salad, leek soup and roasted sea bass (recipes follow) accompanied by the estate's bottlings, especially its signature cava, a remarkable sparkling wine that sells for nearly the price of Champagne. "On this night," Josep María Sr. explains, "everything is possible."
This could easily be the Huguet motto, one which follows the Catalan emphasis on independence and individuality. The story of the Huguets' entry into the world of high-priced cava starts about 20 years ago, when two of Josep María Sr.'s sons, Josep María Jr. and Joan, were young men faced with career decisions. Though their father had a successful construction business in Barcelona, the sons found their thoughts turning instead to the family's weekend home, the 500-year-old Feixes estate, which the Huguets purchased in 1940. Although grapes had been grown at the estate for centuries, they had been sold without fanfare to a local winery, and had provided the Huguets with little income. The brothers resolved to produce fine estate-bottled wines, specifically great sparkling wines. Such an ambition in a part of Spain famous for its inexpensive sparklers (Freixenet and Cordoníu are two neighbors) was audacious--but then Catalonia is where the word quixotic was coined, so why not?
"My father was a bit nervous about moving into winemaking," says Joan (pronounced schwan). "You know, starting a winery is expensive. But he trusted us--and the vineyards." Joan decided to learn viticulture. "I knew that in the vineyard I wouldn't have to wear a tie," he admits with an easy laugh. Josep María Jr. is organized, meticulous and at ease with science, so he studied winemaking.
The land was good: grapes of note had been grown in that soil for at least 2,000 years. But there were considerable risks. Starting a modern winery in an underdeveloped, mountainous area was a major undertaking. The few roads were poor, water was scarce and technological support was scant. The region also had an image problem: it had no image.
Against the odds, the Huguets have succeeded. "We released our first wines in small batches in 1984 and sold them only in Spain," Josep María Jr. said as we tasted the 1994 vintage in a cellar deep below what must have once been a stable. "Now we sell our wines not only in Spain but also in America, in England and in several other European countries. But we can't grow too fast, because we do so much by hand." The Huguets' 1994 vintage produced 6,300 cases--a tiny amount compared with Cordoníu, their neighbor down the mountain, which keeps an average of 10 million cases in its cellars.
As Josep María Jr. popped the corks on their two cavas, Brut Classic and Brut Nature (only the latter is currently available in the United States), he explained why their sparkling wines are labeled Huguet, rather than Can Feixes like their still wines: "We think of our cavas as modern wines, so we have given them the family name. Our still wines are more wines of the land, so they're named after the estate." Both cavas were dry and crisp, yet substantial, with a lingering finish. Josep María Jr. attributed this partly to the addition of Chardonnay grapes and partly to the four years of aging these wines undergo. "It takes that long to develop real character," he says. "Any less and you're only making bubbles." In a region noted for its $8 bottles, the price of their cava--close to $20--has surprised some. These sparklers are clearly superior, though. By concentrating on just a few wines, the Huguets have managed to polish every aspect, ensure every detail and produce exactly the ones they want. A nice way to work indeed.
And, as if that weren't enough, Can Feixes is also a beautiful place. The vineyards surrounding the house are set on the slopes of a 360-degree bowl, more than 1,200 feet above sea level. As we strolled in the cool, clean air, Joan showed me the contrast between the Spanish vines (somewhat shaggy, branching out in all directions) and the French, with grapes like Chardonnay (neatly trained to grow along wires), then abruptly interrupted himself to exclaim, "I love this work!"
Back at the house, Josep María Sr. played with his grandchildren while his wife, Pilar, supervised dinner. Joan, Josep María Jr. and their younger brother, Xavier, did what young men in Spain have always done: hung around and bantered while their wives and girlfriends set the table. The women placed a bundle of 12 large grapes on each plate. As the estate's chapel bell rang in the new year, everyone ate one grape with each chime. Anyone who ate all 12 by the last clang was guaranteed good luck in the coming year. But after seeing (and tasting) all the Huguets have accomplished, I don't think luck is something they're short of these days.
Story by Brian St. Pierre, who is the author of A Perfect Glass of Wine (Chronicle Books) and a contributing editor at Decanter, a wine magazine in the United Kingdom.
This article originally appeared in January, 1999.

Origin information: Food & Wine

La Asociación Qalidès presenta en Barcelona sus vinos más singulares

La Asociación Qalidès presenta en Barcelona sus vinos más singulares

Después de un trabajo de dos años, la asociación Qalidès, termino originado por la combinación de las palabras Calidad y Penedès, convoca a la prensa y a los profesionales del sector en el Hotel Casa Fuster de Barcelona para presentar los productos más singulares y representativos de las nueve bodegas que conforman la entidad. El grupo de nueve bodegas del Penedès adscritas a Qalidès se reunió ayer, 18 de Octubre, en el marco excepcional del Hotel Casa Fuster de Barcelona. Por primera vez en Barcelona, Qalidès presentó sus referencias más singulares en un acto que reunió a más de 500 personas, entre profesionales del sector y prensa. Después de la primera convocatoria en el Penedès hace dos años, cuando entonces Qalidès era sólo una unión de bodegueros de la zona vinculados por la amistad y por un compromiso fundamentado en la calidad y el terroir, esta nueva cita supone la presentación de una asociación estable y lo hace fuera de su entorno habitual, el Penedès, en una dimensión mucho más amplia, Barcelona, que confirma su voluntad de crear una corriente de opinión sobre la elaboración de vinos de gran calidad en el área geográfica del Penedès. Durante el evento, presentado por el periodista Jordi Estadella, el Presidente Qalidès, Joan Huguet, destacó en su discurso que “Qalidès es fruto de la reflexión de nueve bodegas que nace con el objetivo de explicar que hay otro Penedès. Qalidès es un concepto global y sin restricciones que hace referencia al origen, al terruño. Los vinos de Qalidès son vinos escogidos, singulares, vinos que muestran la diversidad de las tierras del Penedès. Esta diversidad da fuerza y sentido a la asociación y al Penedès” En representación del Ayuntamiento de Barcelona asistió la regidora Cati Carreras y del INCAVI su Presidente, Joan Aguado. Las nueve bodegas adscritas a Qalidès son; Albet i Noya, Avgvstvs, Can Feixes, Can Ràfols dels Caus, Finques Miguel Torres, Gramona, Jané Ventura, Jean Leon y Mas Comtal. El otro Penedés Durante sus dos años de existencia, Qalidès, constituida finalmente como asociación sin afán de lucro hace 8 meses, ha mantenido una labor continuada a través de debates, reuniones, catas y otras actividades, en su propósito de consolidar un grupo de bodegas que comparten una misma filosofía en sus vinos de finca, con el objetivo de crear los mejores productos más allá de fines comerciales y que persigue explicar que existe otro Penedès. Otro Penedès detrás de la imagen tradicional que percibe el consumidor sobre los vinos de esta Denominación de Origen. La diversidad, singularidad y el carácter de esta tierra, con el paisaje del cultivo de la viña como signo de identidad constituyen la personalidad de Qalidès. Qalidès ha reafirmado con esta nueva cita su compromiso fundacional por la calidad, la tierra y el Penedès, el compromiso de una asociación dedicada a conservar el cultivo de la viña, de mantener el respeto por el entorno marcado por una identidad paisajística propia y que mantiene sus puertas abiertas a todas las bodegas circunscritas a la zona de la D.O. Penedès que elaboren vinos de finca de calidad. El compromiso con el producto Siendo fieles al compromiso manifestado hace dos años de mostrar periódicamente el fruto de su trabajo, las bodegas presentaron sus vinos más singulares así como una muestra de nueve productos que no se encuentran en el mercado por ser vinos experimentales, elaborados con nuevas variedades, blancos que siguen vivos 15 años después, vinos míticos que se agotaron hace años pero que tienen un excelente envejecimiento y hasta un anecdótico merlot dulce. Entre los productos que presentaron las bodegas cabe mencionar, de Finca Can Feixes, el Can Feixes Chardonnay 2004 y el Can Feixes Reserva Especial 2000; de Cellers Avgvstvs, el Chardonnay 2005, el Cabernet Franc 2004, el Cabernet-Merlot 2001 y el Trajanvs 2001; de Mas Comtal, el Petrea Merlot 1999, el Petrea Merlot 2003, el Antistiana 2000 y el Petrea Chardonnay 2005; de Bodegas Torres el Fransola 2005, el Mas la Plana 2001, el Reserva Real 2000 y el Mas Borràs 2004; de Jean Leon, el Zemis 2003, el Chardonnay 2003, el Reserva 2001 y el Gran Reserva Tàpies 1997; de Can Ràfols dels Caus, La Calma ’02, El Rocallís ’01, el Ad Fines ’01 y el Caus Lubis ’98; de Gramona el Sauvignon Blanc 2005 y el Gra a Gra 2002; de Jané Ventura, el Finca els Camps Macabeu 2005, el Finca els Camps Ull de Llebre 2003 y el Mas Vilella 2002; de Albet y Noya, el Reserva Martí 1998, el Dolç Adrià, el Núria y el Syrah.

Orígen información: Infoaliment

Can Feixes. Seis siglos de historia

Can Feixes. Seis siglos de historia

En Can Feixes los secretos se transmiten de padres a hijos. Hoy, los Huguet, con su padre a la cabeza, son un ejemplo claro del arraigo de las sucesivas generaciones y del esfuerzo y los afanes por ampliar la hacienda, reconocida de antiguo por abastecer a los monjes de Montserrat.
La referencia escrita más antigua que existe sobre la historia de esta bodega es un documento censal de Jaume Feixes que data de 1400. En aquella época, la familia Feixes cultivaba las tierras cedidas por el Barón de Cabrera.Pero fue con la llegada de la filoxera cuando los Feixes disfrutaron de un gran auge económico poniendo su viñedo al servicio de los comerciantes galos, ampliando y mejorando las instalaciones de su explotación agrícola. Can Feixes fue la primera finca de la zona, y la única durante muchos años, en disponer de luz eléctrica. Este apellido sobrevivió estoicamente en el libro de familia de sus propietarios hasta 1904, cuando muerta Teresa Feixes hereda la propiedad su hijo Eduard Sunyer. Fueron más de cinco siglos de continuidad al frente de una propiedad agraria asociada siempre al cultivo de la vid y que ya se había ganado la fama, decían, por poseer algunas de las mejores uvas de toda la comarca.La familia Huguet toma el relevo al frente de Can Feixes a principios de siglo y continúa con la explotación de la finca. Pasaron momentos difíciles durante la Guerra Civil y la II Guerra Mundial, aunque no dejaron de preocuparse por el arte. Así, encargaron en 1946 los notables esgrafiados* de las fachadas y las pinturas realizadas al fresco por el artista Ferrán Serra i Sala, uno de los mejores esgrafiadores catalanes de este siglo. El gran paso adelante llega en los 80, con la segunda y tercera generación de los Huguet. Por fin, era el momento de impregnar a Can Feixes de una filosofía de empresa inspirada en el espíritu del château tradicional europeo. Actualmente, Joan, Joseph María y Xavier son los rostros visibles de la bodega junto a su padre que, aunque retirado, continúa fomentando ese espíritu que le llevó a replantar la finca con diferentes variedades -Parellada, Macabeu, Chardonnay, Ull de llebre (Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon y Merlot- y le permitió presentar en 1984 la primera botella con el nombre de Can Feixes.Can Feixes se alza a una altitud de unos 400 metros entre las localidades de Mediona y Cabrera d´Anoia, prácticamente pegada al macizo de la sierra prelitoral dentro de lo que se ha venido a llamar Penedès Superior. Tiene una extensión de 335 hectáreas bastante montañosas, con laderas sinuosas manchadas por zonas de bosque y caídas de torrentes, por algo Feixes quiere decir "terraplén, terraza o bancal".La elaboración del vino y los cavas se hace sin prisas, con la infraestructura moderna indispensable pero sin grandes alardes tecnológicos. Existen ocho depósitos de fermentación de acero inoxidable de 10.000 litros de capacidad cada uno, más otros seis para maceraciones de 8.500 litros y dos de 5.000. Dispone de una nave de crianza con un total de 225 barricas de roble.Es esta una bodega pequeña, familiar, en la que cada cambio, por pequeño que sea, es la base de un esfuerzo. *esgrafiar: Según la RAE, trazar dibujos con el grafio (una especie de punzón) en una superficie estofada, haciendo saltar en algunos puntos la capa superficial y dejando así al descubierto el color de la siguiente.

Orígen información: Baccua.com