From bubbly Cava to intricate sherries

From bubbly Cava to intricate sherries
UNCORKED BY ED SOON
In this second of a two-part special, we continue exploring the depth and variety of Spain’s delectable wines.
SPAIN’S winemaking regions are vast, comprising 1.2 million hectares in 133 separate regions that are planted to grapes. Many are classified under an appellation system (demarcated regions).
The best regions are given the highest category of appellation – Denominación de Origen Calificada (D.O.Ca.).
Others that qualify for the basic appellation, similar to an American AVA, the French AOC or Italian DOC, are categorised as Denominación de Origen (D.O.).
In the last instalment of Uncorked, we looked at the regions of Navarra, Ribera del Duero and Galicia.
Now, we head to the north-eastern part of Spain that is near the Mediterranean Sea. Residents here will insist that we are in Catalonia rather than in Spain. The major city in this region is Barcelona.
Not far from Barcelona, we find the regions of Priorat, Penedes and Somontano amongst others. Here, whites are made from Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo and Pedro Ximénez, whilst the red grapes are Garnacha Tinta, Garnacha Peluda, Mazuela, Cariñena & Cabernet Sauvignon.
Priorat wines are highly regarded. After all, Priorat is one of the only two appellations that have been awarded the top status, D.O.Ca. (the other being Rioja).
The vineyards of the Priorat are at an altitude of 300m to 1,000m, where the hot daytime temperatures are counterbalanced by the cool evenings at that altitude. This allows grapes to retain their acidity.
Furthermore, soils are not fertile – meaning the vine will concentrate on producing fruit rather than foliage. The roots also have to “dig” deep for water – many a viticulturist will recognize the ideal environment for growing quality grapes.
Indeed, producers like Alvaro Palacios, Capafons Osso and Clos Mogador have been issuing top end wines from the Priorat.
Penedes became quite well known thanks to one of her producers – Torres. The Torres wine range is a showcase of the regions versatility, with traditional and international varieties of grapes used to make wines such as Gran Coronas (Cabernet with Tempranillo), Mas La Plana (Cabernet Sauvignon) and Fransola (Sauvignon Blanc).
Other excellent producers include Jean León, Albet i Noya and Juvé y Camps.
Expect to also encounter sparkling wines in the Penedes. They are called Cava. This sparkling wine was named after the underground cellars (cava) where wines are fermented and aged.
Made in the traditional method, not very different from the Champagne method of France, Cava is found mainly in the region of Catalonia, although you will find cava styles in other regions – from Aragon, Castile and León, Valencia, Extremadura, Navarra, the Basque Country and Rioja.
Cava is lighter in colour than Champagne, the bubbles are more pronounced and it is quite dry – the perfect accompaniment for smoked salmon, quiche and finger foods from samosas to lumpia.
My favourite Cava producers are Pares Balta (boutique) Juvé y Camps (boutique), Codorniu and Freixenet.
Inland from Barcelona and in a natural protected amphitheatre at the base of the Pyrenees Mountains is Somontano.
Still relatively unknown, this region produces tannic reds, fresh full-bodied whites and delicious pink wines, mostly from international varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay.
Indeed, taste the wines of Enate, Vinas del Vero and Bodega Irius and you will note the essence of the Somontano wines in that they taste quite New World-like.
I have not tried them but Bodegas Pirineos also makes wines from the rare indigeneous Moristel grapes.
Situated further south in the central plateau is La Mancha, one of the most traditional wine regions in Spain.
The extreme continental climate, low rainfall and extreme temperatures makes for an environment that Airén white grapes grow particularly well here alongside Cencíbel (Tempranillo), Cabernet and Ganacha grapes.
If much of the output of La Mancha was distilled, today’s offerings show quality and value drinking.
An impressive wine I came across was the Pago del Vicario, a Tempranillo-Cabernet blend that is powerful, flavourful and with a long finish.
A recent D.O. (since 1966) is Jumilla in south-west Spain, inland between La Mancha and the Mediterranean sea.
The Monestrell (Mourvedre) is gaining popularity as a dense full bodied wine. Sometimes, the grape is blended with Syrah, or Merlot.
Casa Castillo Pie Franco Monastrell, is yet another excellent example that you can enjoy more than Tempranillo based wines in Spain.
Then there is Ribera del Guadiana, Condado de Huelva, Málaga, Valdepeñas, Costers del Segre, Ribeiro and more – too many upcoming regions in Spain to cover here.
A last word – do not overlook Spain’s sherries, a special kind of wine made from white Palomino grapes. Fermentation by powdery film yeast imparts a uniquely nutty character to the intentionally oxidised wine.
The Solera system or the stacking of newer casks above older ones enables the easy blending of fresh wines to mature ones to obtain intricate wines.
As small quantities of older wines are drawn for bottling, the casks are topped up with the new wines. The result is that every bottle of sherry you drink contains old wines so that it presents a lovely, complex wine for enjoyment.
For sherries, the choice ranges from the dry (Fino) to the ultra sweet (Pedro Ximinez).
Ed Soon is a qualified oenologist and has run wine shops and worked as a winemaker in various countries. He now writes and teaches about wine around Asia.
Origin information: The Star Online